Jamaican Historical Society Bulletin October 1995 Vol 10 No 12 pp130-3
3. COLBECK CASTLE: ‘a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma’ After reading the articles on Colbeck Castle in Vol. 6 of the Society’s Bulletin, the above heading is about as close as I can get to a suitable sub-title for a comment on this building. Unfortunately, no-one had been alerted to prepare an introduction to Colbeck Castle for our trip there in July, and a quick survey of the Vol. 6 articles did not help much in providing a snappy summary of their contents. The most conspicuous fact about the Castle seems to be that very little is known about it. It was first mentioned by the name ‘Colbeck Castle’ only in 1896 in an advertisement for the sale of the property at that time. Before that, although the Colbeck property is mentioned, and at least one house is mentioned, no-one seems to have recorded the existence of a building as substantial and distinctive as that whose ruins we can now visit.
In Vol. 6 there are articles about the castle by B. Machado, then Editor, and S. A. G. Taylor, and references to research by Geoffrey Yates, Tom Concannon and H. P. Jacobs; there are also reproductions of pictures/photos of the castle (those opposite p. 201 do not get a mention in the Index, and I only found them by accident). All this material only serves to create confusion in the mind of the reader. The writers disagree as to the possible time of the building of the castle, which apparently could have taken place at a variety of times in the late 17th century, or in the 18th century. It is also not known who built it or why, though it seems unlikely that it was built as a defensive position. It is not clear whether it was ever completed, and if it was, it was almost certainly never inhabited. It may have been damaged by hurricanes and by fire, but if so, the fire was probably minor, and comparatively recent. One certainty seems to be that it has been vandalised in the past and that it continues to deteriorate, as nothing much seems to be being done at present to preserve and maintain it.
It is a most impressive structure; having never seen it before I could scarcely believe my eyes when I saw it loom up over the acres of surrounding scrub. Tom Concannon described its external appearance as being a copy of a 17th century Italian villa, and I expect he knew what he was talking about, but how or why such a structure came to be built in Jamaica, whenever it was built, seems permanently hidden from us. I wonder if a survey of existing knowledge, and further research, might throw more light on its origins. Even if we cannot find out anything more, we ought to be able to maintain it better, and make it a site fit to be visited; I’ve certainly visited ruins in England which are less impressive and with almost as little history, which still manage to attract the visiting tourist.
Perhaps some member of the Society might wish to take the following extract from a currently available guide book (published 1993) as the starting point for a reappraisal of the castle and its history: ‘Colbeck Castle is located two miles north of Old Harbour on a side road. Once perhaps the largest building in the Caribbean, it is generally thought to have been built in the late 17th century by an English settler named Coll. John Colbeck, as protection against Maroon attacks and possible invasion by the French. The main walls of this huge brick mansion are still erect, although the roof and floors are gone. Beam slots in the higher walls give an idea of the size of beams used in the construction. Four underground slave quarters can be seen at each corner of the castle. The building is in the midst of what is now a large tobacco farm.’ Alternatively, the Editor might wish to announce a contest for contributions to the Bulletin listing the largest number of queries about statements in this passage! I will offer a copy of Robin Blackburn’s The Overthrow of Colonial Slavery, 1776-1848, (London, 1988) as a prize for the most comprehensive list. [This offer no longer applies; my grandchildren long since took over my second copy of Blackburn!]
In Vol. 6 there are articles about the castle by B. Machado, then Editor, and S. A. G. Taylor, and references to research by Geoffrey Yates, Tom Concannon and H. P. Jacobs; there are also reproductions of pictures/photos of the castle (those opposite p. 201 do not get a mention in the Index, and I only found them by accident). All this material only serves to create confusion in the mind of the reader. The writers disagree as to the possible time of the building of the castle, which apparently could have taken place at a variety of times in the late 17th century, or in the 18th century. It is also not known who built it or why, though it seems unlikely that it was built as a defensive position. It is not clear whether it was ever completed, and if it was, it was almost certainly never inhabited. It may have been damaged by hurricanes and by fire, but if so, the fire was probably minor, and comparatively recent. One certainty seems to be that it has been vandalised in the past and that it continues to deteriorate, as nothing much seems to be being done at present to preserve and maintain it.
It is a most impressive structure; having never seen it before I could scarcely believe my eyes when I saw it loom up over the acres of surrounding scrub. Tom Concannon described its external appearance as being a copy of a 17th century Italian villa, and I expect he knew what he was talking about, but how or why such a structure came to be built in Jamaica, whenever it was built, seems permanently hidden from us. I wonder if a survey of existing knowledge, and further research, might throw more light on its origins. Even if we cannot find out anything more, we ought to be able to maintain it better, and make it a site fit to be visited; I’ve certainly visited ruins in England which are less impressive and with almost as little history, which still manage to attract the visiting tourist.
Perhaps some member of the Society might wish to take the following extract from a currently available guide book (published 1993) as the starting point for a reappraisal of the castle and its history: ‘Colbeck Castle is located two miles north of Old Harbour on a side road. Once perhaps the largest building in the Caribbean, it is generally thought to have been built in the late 17th century by an English settler named Coll. John Colbeck, as protection against Maroon attacks and possible invasion by the French. The main walls of this huge brick mansion are still erect, although the roof and floors are gone. Beam slots in the higher walls give an idea of the size of beams used in the construction. Four underground slave quarters can be seen at each corner of the castle. The building is in the midst of what is now a large tobacco farm.’ Alternatively, the Editor might wish to announce a contest for contributions to the Bulletin listing the largest number of queries about statements in this passage! I will offer a copy of Robin Blackburn’s The Overthrow of Colonial Slavery, 1776-1848, (London, 1988) as a prize for the most comprehensive list. [This offer no longer applies; my grandchildren long since took over my second copy of Blackburn!]
articles on this page -
'Colbeck Castle....It is odd that it is not mentioned by eighteenth century historians such as Long (1774), or included in the sketches and paintings of nineteenth century artists.'
Clinton Vane de Brosse Black, Spanish Town: The Old Capital, 1974 |
from Historic Jamaica, by Frank Cundall, 1915
(so far, this drawing of Colbeck Castle, by Mrs Lionel Lee, is the earliest that I have been able to find)
(so far, this drawing of Colbeck Castle, by Mrs Lionel Lee, is the earliest that I have been able to find)
pp 131-2
Colebeck Castle, which stands on a ridge of land on the west bank of the Colebeck gully, about a mile and a half to the north-west of Old Harbour town, overlooking the bay, probably dates from the end of the seventeenth century. It must have been the most imposing building of the kind erected in Jamaica. It was evidently at one time partially destroyed by fire. It is rectangular in plan, about 114 feet wide and 90 feet deep, consisting of four three-storied, square, tower-like buildings at each corner, rising to a height of about 40 feet, connected by two-storied arched arcades, consisting on two sides of three arches, on the other sides of five arches. The windows on the ground floor are circular. The walls are formed of stone, filled in between with rubble, with brick quoins and window facings, and are about 2 feet 6 inches thick; at every fourth or fifth course is a course of larger sized bricks. The inside walls have been coated with plaster work. Some of the lintels of doors and windows still remain, and are of bully-wood, as good as when they were first put up. A concrete terrace ran around the castle, with steps at front and back. Parts of a projecting wall—at a distance of about 114 feet from the castle on each side, enclosing a square of about 300 feet—about 12 inches thick, still remain, and show crudely-formed loop-holes for firing. In some places there is a drop of from 12 to 20 feet on the outside. At each corner of the outer wall was a substantial building some 60 feet square, and underneath three of them were vaulted dungeons. Two dungeons are no higher than 6 feet, 8 feet wide, and 24 feet long, with only one very small aperture low down at one end. The dungeon at another corner measures 60 feet by 20 feet, and is reached by a flight of twenty steps. To-day the castle is surrounded by bush, and is the abode of bats and owls. On the surrounding property sugar has given place to tobacco. |
who owned Colbeck/Colbecks?
my first attempt at some information on the owners of Colbeck, or Colbecks, as it appears in many references - I will add more information if I find it:
In the survey of Jamaica sent home, by Modyford in 1670, under St. Katherine's parish we read: 'John Colbeck (812 acres); Capt Colebeck and inhabitants (1,340 acres).
……………………….
A LIST OF LANDHOLDERS IN THE ISLAND OF JAMAICA
Together with the number of acres each person possessed taken from
THE QUIT RENT BOOKS IN THE YEAR 1754
LANDHOLDERS' NAMES, Parish, Number of acres owned
Bernard, William Henry, Clarendon 666, St. Dorothy 4178, Total 4844
……………………….
THE JAMAICA COURANT
Saturday JUNE 22 to Saturday JUNE 29, 1754
John McLeod Esq. at 'Colbeck' Plantation, in the Parish of St. Dorothy.
……………………….
MacLEOD, JOHN
M.A. St, Dorothy 1766. [Feurtado]
……………………….
Excerpts from: "THE EDINBURGH ADVERTISER", SCOTLAND
Tuesday, July 18, 1775
John McLeod of Colvecks, Esq., an eminent planter died in Jamaica on the 12th. of May last.
[ https://familysearch.org/pal:/MM9.3.1/TH-1-13877-20696-25?cc=1827268&wc=M6GL-YW5:161381301,161381302 ]
London Evening Post, Saturday, July 22, 1775, Page 4
John M'Leod of Colvecks, Esq; an eminent planter, died in Jamaica on the 12th of May last.
……………………….
1817 McLeod, John, Colbeck's, estate, 243 slaves/308 stock
……………………….
1840 Jamaica Almanac
ST. DOROTHY
McLeod, John, heirs of, Colbeck's, 5586
……………………….
……………………….
A LIST OF LANDHOLDERS IN THE ISLAND OF JAMAICA
Together with the number of acres each person possessed taken from
THE QUIT RENT BOOKS IN THE YEAR 1754
LANDHOLDERS' NAMES, Parish, Number of acres owned
Bernard, William Henry, Clarendon 666, St. Dorothy 4178, Total 4844
……………………….
THE JAMAICA COURANT
Saturday JUNE 22 to Saturday JUNE 29, 1754
John McLeod Esq. at 'Colbeck' Plantation, in the Parish of St. Dorothy.
……………………….
MacLEOD, JOHN
M.A. St, Dorothy 1766. [Feurtado]
……………………….
Excerpts from: "THE EDINBURGH ADVERTISER", SCOTLAND
Tuesday, July 18, 1775
John McLeod of Colvecks, Esq., an eminent planter died in Jamaica on the 12th. of May last.
[ https://familysearch.org/pal:/MM9.3.1/TH-1-13877-20696-25?cc=1827268&wc=M6GL-YW5:161381301,161381302 ]
London Evening Post, Saturday, July 22, 1775, Page 4
John M'Leod of Colvecks, Esq; an eminent planter, died in Jamaica on the 12th of May last.
……………………….
1817 McLeod, John, Colbeck's, estate, 243 slaves/308 stock
……………………….
1840 Jamaica Almanac
ST. DOROTHY
McLeod, John, heirs of, Colbeck's, 5586
……………………….
The Law Journal Reports, Volume 10
Michaelmas Term 1840
John M'Leod, the testator, in 1765, mortgaged the estate called Colbecks for a large sum of money; and, by his will, in 1775, charged his debts and legacies and annuities on his real estate, and gave the residue of his estate real and personal, to trustees, in trust for his nephew, John M'Leod, for life, remainder to his first and other sons in tail, remainder to his own right heirs, and on that contingency happening and failure of issue of his brother, and his estate going to his right heirs more remote, he charged and made liable his estate to the payment of 5,000l, to his niece Jannet, and he empowered his nephew to charge the estate with certain portions for his daughters. The testator died in 1775, leaving his brother his heir, and he died in 1786, leaving the devisee, John M'Leod, his heir, who died in 1822, without issue male, but leaving daughters, to whom he, by will, devised the estate for successive estates for life, with remainder to their first and other sons in tail, subject to the mortgage of the year 1765, and other charges after a prior life estate to his wife.
……………………….
1845 JAMAICA ALMANAC
RETURNS OF PROPRIETORS, PROPERTIES, AND LAND
IN THE DIFFERENT PARISHES,
FOR MARCH QUARTER, 1844.
Hannaford, S. Whim, 702
_Same, Bannister's, 1625
_Same, Retreat, 549
_Same, Grove, 534
_Same, Colbeck's, 5586
_Same, Masters‘, 1066
_Same, Bluehole, 602
_Same, Bushy Park, 257?
_Same, Wharf, 46
_Same, Trevese, 80
_Same, agent of Mrs. Holcombe, 80
[Sacred to the memory of George Willett Hannaford, youngest
son of the late Stephen Hannaford, Esq., of the parish of St.
Dorothy, who departed this life on the 23rd day of October, 1875,
in the 37th year of his age. . . . ]
……………………….
"Yerri, Yerri, Koongo": A Social History of Liberated ... - Page 236
Monica Elaine Schuler - 1977
Employed on his return on Stephen Hannaford's Ann's Castle, St. Dorothy, Clarke did not remain long, for he sailed once more on the Glen Huntley a month after his arrival.
……………………….
Stephen Hannaford, architect of St Philip's Church, Old Harbour, d. of cholera in this island 1850 aged 58. Churchyard. [Wright, Monumental Inscriptions]
[I would like to be able to access an article in Western Ontario history nuggets which deals with an area of Jamaica on which I am doing some research. Via Google books I have this rather vague reference - Western Ontario History Nuggets, Issues 28-32, Lawson Memorial Library, University of Western Ontario., 1959. The article has references it appears to 'Mr Hannaford' 'Colonel McLeod' and 'Colbecks Estate', all of which relate to my research. I very much hope it may be possible to purchase a .pdf copy of the article, and that you may be able to put me in contact with the relevant department. Many thanks, Joy Lumsden, 10 years retired from the Dept of History, Mona Campus, UWI.]
……………………….
Gleaner
January 26, 1874
Died
At Experiment Penn, Vere, on the 20th inst., Anna Maria, relict of the late Stephen Hannaford, Esq., of Amity Hall, St. Dorothy, aged 63 years.
……………………….
May 21, 1875
The Governor has accepted the resignation of Stephen Hannaford, Esq., of his appointment as a Member of the Municipal Board of the parish of St. Catherine.
……………………….
HON. WILLIAM4 MALABRE was born January 27, 1833 in Kingston, Jamaica, and died August 28, 1895 at his residence on North Street, Kingston, Jamaica.
Justice of the peace for Kingston, St. Andrew and St. Catherine
One of 4 Vice-Presidents of the Jamaica Society of Agriculture and Commerce
Member of the Legislative Council for Kingston & St. Andrew 1884-1889
Proprietor of Colbeck Estate, St. Catherine
Kingston, William Malabre & Co., General Agents for Royal Insurance Company, Fire & Life.
The firm of William Malabre & Co was liquidated after his death in 1895
1891 Malabre, W., Colbeck Pen
……………………….
1910
Ja. Tobacco Co. owner Colbecks Pen Rowe G. D. occupier Old Harbour
Michaelmas Term 1840
John M'Leod, the testator, in 1765, mortgaged the estate called Colbecks for a large sum of money; and, by his will, in 1775, charged his debts and legacies and annuities on his real estate, and gave the residue of his estate real and personal, to trustees, in trust for his nephew, John M'Leod, for life, remainder to his first and other sons in tail, remainder to his own right heirs, and on that contingency happening and failure of issue of his brother, and his estate going to his right heirs more remote, he charged and made liable his estate to the payment of 5,000l, to his niece Jannet, and he empowered his nephew to charge the estate with certain portions for his daughters. The testator died in 1775, leaving his brother his heir, and he died in 1786, leaving the devisee, John M'Leod, his heir, who died in 1822, without issue male, but leaving daughters, to whom he, by will, devised the estate for successive estates for life, with remainder to their first and other sons in tail, subject to the mortgage of the year 1765, and other charges after a prior life estate to his wife.
……………………….
1845 JAMAICA ALMANAC
RETURNS OF PROPRIETORS, PROPERTIES, AND LAND
IN THE DIFFERENT PARISHES,
FOR MARCH QUARTER, 1844.
Hannaford, S. Whim, 702
_Same, Bannister's, 1625
_Same, Retreat, 549
_Same, Grove, 534
_Same, Colbeck's, 5586
_Same, Masters‘, 1066
_Same, Bluehole, 602
_Same, Bushy Park, 257?
_Same, Wharf, 46
_Same, Trevese, 80
_Same, agent of Mrs. Holcombe, 80
[Sacred to the memory of George Willett Hannaford, youngest
son of the late Stephen Hannaford, Esq., of the parish of St.
Dorothy, who departed this life on the 23rd day of October, 1875,
in the 37th year of his age. . . . ]
……………………….
"Yerri, Yerri, Koongo": A Social History of Liberated ... - Page 236
Monica Elaine Schuler - 1977
Employed on his return on Stephen Hannaford's Ann's Castle, St. Dorothy, Clarke did not remain long, for he sailed once more on the Glen Huntley a month after his arrival.
……………………….
Stephen Hannaford, architect of St Philip's Church, Old Harbour, d. of cholera in this island 1850 aged 58. Churchyard. [Wright, Monumental Inscriptions]
[I would like to be able to access an article in Western Ontario history nuggets which deals with an area of Jamaica on which I am doing some research. Via Google books I have this rather vague reference - Western Ontario History Nuggets, Issues 28-32, Lawson Memorial Library, University of Western Ontario., 1959. The article has references it appears to 'Mr Hannaford' 'Colonel McLeod' and 'Colbecks Estate', all of which relate to my research. I very much hope it may be possible to purchase a .pdf copy of the article, and that you may be able to put me in contact with the relevant department. Many thanks, Joy Lumsden, 10 years retired from the Dept of History, Mona Campus, UWI.]
……………………….
Gleaner
January 26, 1874
Died
At Experiment Penn, Vere, on the 20th inst., Anna Maria, relict of the late Stephen Hannaford, Esq., of Amity Hall, St. Dorothy, aged 63 years.
……………………….
May 21, 1875
The Governor has accepted the resignation of Stephen Hannaford, Esq., of his appointment as a Member of the Municipal Board of the parish of St. Catherine.
……………………….
HON. WILLIAM4 MALABRE was born January 27, 1833 in Kingston, Jamaica, and died August 28, 1895 at his residence on North Street, Kingston, Jamaica.
Justice of the peace for Kingston, St. Andrew and St. Catherine
One of 4 Vice-Presidents of the Jamaica Society of Agriculture and Commerce
Member of the Legislative Council for Kingston & St. Andrew 1884-1889
Proprietor of Colbeck Estate, St. Catherine
Kingston, William Malabre & Co., General Agents for Royal Insurance Company, Fire & Life.
The firm of William Malabre & Co was liquidated after his death in 1895
1891 Malabre, W., Colbeck Pen
……………………….
1910
Ja. Tobacco Co. owner Colbecks Pen Rowe G. D. occupier Old Harbour
Daily Gleaner
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 1898
The Vicissitudes of a Large Estate.
BY JAMES NEISH, M. D.
Within a year or two of the Spanish surrender, and almost immediately on the installation of the British forces in Jamaica in the time of King Charles II, a vast tract of land was assigned by the Crown to Colonel Colbeck. This, as to time, was almost in the middle of the seventeenth century. The land was a large segment of the Vega stretching from the foothills to the sea-coast. It included the present site of Old Harbour Market and of Old Harbour Bay. The proprietor, as heritor from the Crown, soon began to improve this vast estate, the gift being the reward of valour, and an acknowledgement of the conspicuous services done by the gallant officer.
One of Colonel Colbeck's successors commenced about a hundred years ago, the erection of a magnificent habitation, which, however, bears no appearance of ever having been completed, but which is known to this day as "Colbeck Castle." It is now simply a magnificent ruin, and is, perhaps, one of the most remarkable in the island. A few months ago sugar-canes were planted amid the ruins, and the scene was incongruous.
Vicissitudes followed. Some of the land had to be parted with, and eventually, by repeated sales, a strip of land running down from Old Harbour to the sea, some three miles in length, and of a depth or width varying to nearly a mile or more, was cut off from the estate. Colbeck's estate remained in the possession of the Colbeck family until about eighty years ago. Yet at this day the estate is remarkable for its size and for its great acreage. The middle driving-road penetrates the property for a few miles to the elegant modern "great house," but port the old works and the cane lands are beyond. The lower driving road leads to Colbeck Castle and to what are knows as the back lands. The area of the place is measured by diameters in various directions of five miles. The lower ranges of the St. Catherine's Mountains are included within the domain. The mountain road from Old Harbour crossing the Barton's hill to enter the upper part of the parish, formerly the parish of Saint John, stretches from near Old Harbour, in the old parish of St. Dorothy, along a course of five miles, on the western side of which is the boundary line of Colbeck's estate.
It is by travelling along these roads, as the writer in the course of professional work, has recently been called on to do, that an idea of the beauty and quality of this property and of its various agricultural capabilities, can be gained by reason of the quality of the soil, varying as it does from rich alluvial to meadow pasture-land, and from marly rock and the "red dirt", of the yam-patches on the mountain side. The central driving road enters into guinea-grass, then by and bye we reach the Cuban settlements where the cultivation of tobacco has been inaugurated by the refugees of the "ten years' war,"—1868 to 1878, —and most of whom still remain, although some heads of Cuban families are temporarily absent. The Cuban settlement is remarkably characteristic of Cuba. The scene we have now entered upon is spoken of as precisely corresponding to scenes in the tobacco region of Cuba,—not the Vuelta Abajo, be it understood—but to that part of the environs of Santiago-de-Cuba whence many of our Cuban residents came. In two respects at least it differs from what would be seen in Cuba, in that the roads are good, and that there is a water-service. Notice that massive ox drinking from an iron trough into which water is fed by a pipe. Nevertheless, the Cuban characteristics are predominating. The eye beholds the same large-sized tobacco houses or drying barns wherein the gathered leaves are slowly dried,—the same thatched but dry and roomy and comfortable dwellings perched on some slight rocky eminence or rising ground, and looking down on the level plateau. The whole scene is distinctly Cuban; but it is only a couple of miles distant from the Old Harbour railway station ! We drive on, but at the very termination of the Cuban settlement is another Cuban feature, the tienda or road-aide store of the settlement. Of course, "aqua se habla espanol," but this legend is not set forth after the manner of Harbour Street, for the sufficient reason that it is not necessary. LETIBBE remarked that the Cubans, much at they hate the Spanish government, are great lovers of Spanish literature.
Still driving on, we soon enter a series of the most lovely natural parks in the grazing lands which surround the resilience. What is that object on a moderately distant eminence? The vehicle is stopped; the binocular is brought out, and we have a view, surprisingly definite, of the remaining walls of Colbeck Castle, rising up out of the screen of the denser foliage of some surrounding trees. We are now in a park the natural beauty of which the wealthiest English nobleman might envy! The panorama is picturesque; it is much varied, and whilst it is park-like, the difference between it and an English park is wide enough, but not so wide as the remote distance from England might lead one to expect. The landscape, however, is tropical and it is Jamaican. That conspicuous object in the middle-distance is nothing but a cashew tree, and therefore it is sufficiently characteristic of Jamaica, but how it rivets the attention ! The tree is a perfect dome and its contour is in exact geometrical lines. A freak of nature, perhaps, but the object is one of great beauty. The gentle undulations of the land, the definite background of the mountains, and the varied vegetation, make up a charming view.
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 1898
The Vicissitudes of a Large Estate.
BY JAMES NEISH, M. D.
Within a year or two of the Spanish surrender, and almost immediately on the installation of the British forces in Jamaica in the time of King Charles II, a vast tract of land was assigned by the Crown to Colonel Colbeck. This, as to time, was almost in the middle of the seventeenth century. The land was a large segment of the Vega stretching from the foothills to the sea-coast. It included the present site of Old Harbour Market and of Old Harbour Bay. The proprietor, as heritor from the Crown, soon began to improve this vast estate, the gift being the reward of valour, and an acknowledgement of the conspicuous services done by the gallant officer.
One of Colonel Colbeck's successors commenced about a hundred years ago, the erection of a magnificent habitation, which, however, bears no appearance of ever having been completed, but which is known to this day as "Colbeck Castle." It is now simply a magnificent ruin, and is, perhaps, one of the most remarkable in the island. A few months ago sugar-canes were planted amid the ruins, and the scene was incongruous.
Vicissitudes followed. Some of the land had to be parted with, and eventually, by repeated sales, a strip of land running down from Old Harbour to the sea, some three miles in length, and of a depth or width varying to nearly a mile or more, was cut off from the estate. Colbeck's estate remained in the possession of the Colbeck family until about eighty years ago. Yet at this day the estate is remarkable for its size and for its great acreage. The middle driving-road penetrates the property for a few miles to the elegant modern "great house," but port the old works and the cane lands are beyond. The lower driving road leads to Colbeck Castle and to what are knows as the back lands. The area of the place is measured by diameters in various directions of five miles. The lower ranges of the St. Catherine's Mountains are included within the domain. The mountain road from Old Harbour crossing the Barton's hill to enter the upper part of the parish, formerly the parish of Saint John, stretches from near Old Harbour, in the old parish of St. Dorothy, along a course of five miles, on the western side of which is the boundary line of Colbeck's estate.
It is by travelling along these roads, as the writer in the course of professional work, has recently been called on to do, that an idea of the beauty and quality of this property and of its various agricultural capabilities, can be gained by reason of the quality of the soil, varying as it does from rich alluvial to meadow pasture-land, and from marly rock and the "red dirt", of the yam-patches on the mountain side. The central driving road enters into guinea-grass, then by and bye we reach the Cuban settlements where the cultivation of tobacco has been inaugurated by the refugees of the "ten years' war,"—1868 to 1878, —and most of whom still remain, although some heads of Cuban families are temporarily absent. The Cuban settlement is remarkably characteristic of Cuba. The scene we have now entered upon is spoken of as precisely corresponding to scenes in the tobacco region of Cuba,—not the Vuelta Abajo, be it understood—but to that part of the environs of Santiago-de-Cuba whence many of our Cuban residents came. In two respects at least it differs from what would be seen in Cuba, in that the roads are good, and that there is a water-service. Notice that massive ox drinking from an iron trough into which water is fed by a pipe. Nevertheless, the Cuban characteristics are predominating. The eye beholds the same large-sized tobacco houses or drying barns wherein the gathered leaves are slowly dried,—the same thatched but dry and roomy and comfortable dwellings perched on some slight rocky eminence or rising ground, and looking down on the level plateau. The whole scene is distinctly Cuban; but it is only a couple of miles distant from the Old Harbour railway station ! We drive on, but at the very termination of the Cuban settlement is another Cuban feature, the tienda or road-aide store of the settlement. Of course, "aqua se habla espanol," but this legend is not set forth after the manner of Harbour Street, for the sufficient reason that it is not necessary. LETIBBE remarked that the Cubans, much at they hate the Spanish government, are great lovers of Spanish literature.
Still driving on, we soon enter a series of the most lovely natural parks in the grazing lands which surround the resilience. What is that object on a moderately distant eminence? The vehicle is stopped; the binocular is brought out, and we have a view, surprisingly definite, of the remaining walls of Colbeck Castle, rising up out of the screen of the denser foliage of some surrounding trees. We are now in a park the natural beauty of which the wealthiest English nobleman might envy! The panorama is picturesque; it is much varied, and whilst it is park-like, the difference between it and an English park is wide enough, but not so wide as the remote distance from England might lead one to expect. The landscape, however, is tropical and it is Jamaican. That conspicuous object in the middle-distance is nothing but a cashew tree, and therefore it is sufficiently characteristic of Jamaica, but how it rivets the attention ! The tree is a perfect dome and its contour is in exact geometrical lines. A freak of nature, perhaps, but the object is one of great beauty. The gentle undulations of the land, the definite background of the mountains, and the varied vegetation, make up a charming view.
[The rest of Dr Neish's article is about growing tobacco at Colbeck and elsewhere.]
Colbeck's is a property that has had many owners, and has witnessed many vicissitudes,— vicissitudes, no doubt, which have happened to many another extensive property, dating from emancipation to our latter day sugar-crisis; but it is the object of this contribution to refer specially to one of its vicissitudes and to one of its proprietors in the person of the late lamented General VILLEGAS, a Cuban refugee of the ten years war, who settled here in the disturbed times for Cuba connected with that effort of the patriotic Cubans. The memory of this gentleman must be regarded with consideration by every worthy Jamaican, for he was greatly instrumental in originating, promoting, and sustaining the tobacco industry in Jamaica. It is true that his efforts were almost altogether restricted to his own property and among his own tenants, and that other gentlemen in other parts of the island did their part to localize the tobacco industry on their own premises; but General VILLEGAS, political refugee as he was, with a reputation for kindliness of heart and great practical benevolence, was a prime working factor in this part of the island About nine years ago circumstances induced him to quit Colbeck's and the Island, and he died abroad about a year thereafter. His old neighbours hereabouts show a touching respect for his memory, and recount his acts of benevolence; finally, they relate with emotion that he died of a broken heart !
By a coincidence, the writer, residing then sixteen years ago at Port Royal, received a courteous visit from General VILLEGAS. His object was connected with that practical benevolence which distinguishes him, namely, he was looking after the interests of poor Cubans detained in the Lazaretto. On the day of release he would assuredly be among the passengers, doing his best to provide homes for the new comers and to aid them did they need it. This casual acquaintance ripened into some degree of intimacy, and with that courteous kindness which always marked the intercourse of General VILLEGAS with everybody, he never hesitated to answer the questions relating to his cultivation of tobacco which I ventured to put to him. I was then engaged in giving a practical and industrial turn to my academic knowledge of botany, and the outcome of my studies took shape in the two lectures which I delivered under the auspices of the Institute of Jamaica, the one on the Cultivation of the Orange, and the other on Kola as a beverage substance. With the Genera!, however, my object was the subject of tobacco, and again with the utmost courtesy he did his best to inform me. I am still a disciple of the cult of material development for Jamaica; and finding that the Editor is entertaining similar views, again I hopefully request that publicity and diffusion may be given to the views entertained by so competent and eminent an authority as General VILLEGAS on the subject of cultivating tobacco in Jamaica—views which were related to me on various separate occasions by General VILLEGAS himself.
The General expressed himself as of opinion that in this island there are large tracts of land in various parts perfectly adapted, with proper cultivation and care, for the growth of good tobacco. He told me that experience in the matter at Colbeck's had led him to the conclusion that the soil and climate of that property peculiarly fitted it for the growth of a fine and mild quality of Havana tobacco suitable for manufacturing into cigars of high grade as to quality and flavour, but not too strong. He mentioned that at that time the tobacco grown on Colbeck's was finding a good sale in England, and that cigars made from it in London were in great favour amongst young gentlemen preferring a cigar of mild strength but of fine flavour to much stronger cigars made of different tobacco. He also told me, what has
subsequently proved to be true, that the Potosi tobacco was grown in far too wet a climate, that there would always be a difficulty in preparing and preserving that tobacco and the cigars for want of good keeping quality.
My informant also maintained with great animation that it was useless to leave the fermenting or 'curing' process to any native labour. He said, however, he had been very successful in teaching this part of the art to an intelligent Coolie, who at length could be fully trusted. On this point I ventured to press him very closely, when he answered frankly that the process required intelligence and careful watchfulness. He never maintained that the Cubans had a sole monopoly of the art. Instead of doing so, he said every good judge of a good cigar, every smoker who had a proper taste for the quality of the cigar which he smoked, had it in his power to superintend the process of final curing to a successful end.
These matters told to me in the eighties, when political notions did not enter into account, and when the general hopefulness of the community led to the wish that the infant industry might flourish and extend, have all proved true. The tobacco industry is at length hopefully established. The oppressive fiscal error that has been committed will be retraced, and a fresh stimulus will be given. Already the plough has been set at work in the Cuban settlement the seed will be sown, and the planting will go on.
The wish of the writer will have been attained if this contribution should lead to some greater confidence in the as yet undeveloped resources of Jamaica. Truly, uncultivated land is everywhere; there is vast room for an increased population to cultivate this wasted land and make it blossom as the rose.
Colbeck's is a property that has had many owners, and has witnessed many vicissitudes,— vicissitudes, no doubt, which have happened to many another extensive property, dating from emancipation to our latter day sugar-crisis; but it is the object of this contribution to refer specially to one of its vicissitudes and to one of its proprietors in the person of the late lamented General VILLEGAS, a Cuban refugee of the ten years war, who settled here in the disturbed times for Cuba connected with that effort of the patriotic Cubans. The memory of this gentleman must be regarded with consideration by every worthy Jamaican, for he was greatly instrumental in originating, promoting, and sustaining the tobacco industry in Jamaica. It is true that his efforts were almost altogether restricted to his own property and among his own tenants, and that other gentlemen in other parts of the island did their part to localize the tobacco industry on their own premises; but General VILLEGAS, political refugee as he was, with a reputation for kindliness of heart and great practical benevolence, was a prime working factor in this part of the island About nine years ago circumstances induced him to quit Colbeck's and the Island, and he died abroad about a year thereafter. His old neighbours hereabouts show a touching respect for his memory, and recount his acts of benevolence; finally, they relate with emotion that he died of a broken heart !
By a coincidence, the writer, residing then sixteen years ago at Port Royal, received a courteous visit from General VILLEGAS. His object was connected with that practical benevolence which distinguishes him, namely, he was looking after the interests of poor Cubans detained in the Lazaretto. On the day of release he would assuredly be among the passengers, doing his best to provide homes for the new comers and to aid them did they need it. This casual acquaintance ripened into some degree of intimacy, and with that courteous kindness which always marked the intercourse of General VILLEGAS with everybody, he never hesitated to answer the questions relating to his cultivation of tobacco which I ventured to put to him. I was then engaged in giving a practical and industrial turn to my academic knowledge of botany, and the outcome of my studies took shape in the two lectures which I delivered under the auspices of the Institute of Jamaica, the one on the Cultivation of the Orange, and the other on Kola as a beverage substance. With the Genera!, however, my object was the subject of tobacco, and again with the utmost courtesy he did his best to inform me. I am still a disciple of the cult of material development for Jamaica; and finding that the Editor is entertaining similar views, again I hopefully request that publicity and diffusion may be given to the views entertained by so competent and eminent an authority as General VILLEGAS on the subject of cultivating tobacco in Jamaica—views which were related to me on various separate occasions by General VILLEGAS himself.
The General expressed himself as of opinion that in this island there are large tracts of land in various parts perfectly adapted, with proper cultivation and care, for the growth of good tobacco. He told me that experience in the matter at Colbeck's had led him to the conclusion that the soil and climate of that property peculiarly fitted it for the growth of a fine and mild quality of Havana tobacco suitable for manufacturing into cigars of high grade as to quality and flavour, but not too strong. He mentioned that at that time the tobacco grown on Colbeck's was finding a good sale in England, and that cigars made from it in London were in great favour amongst young gentlemen preferring a cigar of mild strength but of fine flavour to much stronger cigars made of different tobacco. He also told me, what has
subsequently proved to be true, that the Potosi tobacco was grown in far too wet a climate, that there would always be a difficulty in preparing and preserving that tobacco and the cigars for want of good keeping quality.
My informant also maintained with great animation that it was useless to leave the fermenting or 'curing' process to any native labour. He said, however, he had been very successful in teaching this part of the art to an intelligent Coolie, who at length could be fully trusted. On this point I ventured to press him very closely, when he answered frankly that the process required intelligence and careful watchfulness. He never maintained that the Cubans had a sole monopoly of the art. Instead of doing so, he said every good judge of a good cigar, every smoker who had a proper taste for the quality of the cigar which he smoked, had it in his power to superintend the process of final curing to a successful end.
These matters told to me in the eighties, when political notions did not enter into account, and when the general hopefulness of the community led to the wish that the infant industry might flourish and extend, have all proved true. The tobacco industry is at length hopefully established. The oppressive fiscal error that has been committed will be retraced, and a fresh stimulus will be given. Already the plough has been set at work in the Cuban settlement the seed will be sown, and the planting will go on.
The wish of the writer will have been attained if this contribution should lead to some greater confidence in the as yet undeveloped resources of Jamaica. Truly, uncultivated land is everywhere; there is vast room for an increased population to cultivate this wasted land and make it blossom as the rose.
Daily Gleaner, November 5, 1965
Colbeck Castle; Curious lack of record
by T. A. L. Concannon
Colbeck Castle; Curious lack of record
by T. A. L. Concannon
COLBECK CASTLE is a massive stone and brick ruin with walls standing to their full original height in open country about two miles north of Old Harbour, St. Catherine, twenty-six miles, from Kingston.
Believed to have been built towards the end of the 17th century perhaps by Colonel John Colbeck, the Castle is the largest single building group to have survived in Jamaica to the present day.
Believed to have been built towards the end of the 17th century perhaps by Colonel John Colbeck, the Castle is the largest single building group to have survived in Jamaica to the present day.
John Colbeck was a member of the invading English forces under Penn and Venables in 1655, a soldier who continued to live in Jamaica as a private citizen after the conquest. The following extract about Colbeck is taken from Cundall's 'Historic Jamaica' (published for the Institute of Jamaica by the West India Committee, London, 1915) :-
"He was retained member for Old Harbour in the first Assembly of Jamaica, which met on January 20, I663-1664. In 1664, as Sedgwick had prophesied in a letter to Thurloe, the Maroons proved a thorn in the side of the English settlers. Though the main body under Juan de Bolas had surrendered after the defeat of the Spaniards by Doyley, other parties remained in inaccessible retreats, and, augmented by runaway slaves, gave great trouble by intermittent descents on the planters in the interior. Foremost amongst these were the Vermaholis negroes.
After the death, in action, of Juan de Bolas, who on surrendering had been made a colonel of the Black regiment, Captain Colbeck in March 1664, was employed by endeavour to quell them." |
In the survey of Jamaica sent home, by Modyford in 1670, under St. Katherine's parish we read: 'John Colbeck (812 acres); Capt Colebeck and inhabitants (1,340 acres).
In the third Assembly which met on February 1, 167-72 Colebeck's name appears among the representatives of St. Catherine as 'Major John Colebeck for Bowers', Bowers being the district in which Colebeck Castle stands. On February 14 following the Gentlemen of the Assembly in a body came to the Council, and informed the Governor (Sir Thomas Lynch, Lieutenant-Governor) of the sickness of their Speaker, Captain Samuel Long, who recommended unto them Major John Colebeck with whom they went back to their House and immediately returned thanks to the Governor for his proposing so fit and able a person to be their Speaker.
In the third Assembly which met on February 1, 167-72 Colebeck's name appears among the representatives of St. Catherine as 'Major John Colebeck for Bowers', Bowers being the district in which Colebeck Castle stands. On February 14 following the Gentlemen of the Assembly in a body came to the Council, and informed the Governor (Sir Thomas Lynch, Lieutenant-Governor) of the sickness of their Speaker, Captain Samuel Long, who recommended unto them Major John Colebeck with whom they went back to their House and immediately returned thanks to the Governor for his proposing so fit and able a person to be their Speaker.
Colebeck remained Speaker of the Assembly until Samuel Long was re-elected in May 1673, but on Long's election to the Council, Colebeck was passed over for the speakership and Beeston was elected.
Colbeck was returned again in the fourth Assembly on May 10, 1673 this time for Bowers under the head of St Catherine. In the next Assembly he appeared as a representative of St Catherine, and in the 6th Assembly on April 28th, 1675 he was returned for the newly formed parish of St. Dorothy, which he continued to represent in later assemblies. In 1679 Colbeck served on a committee of the Council and Assembly, for the Defence of Jamaica, making recommendations to the governor for "strengthening the breastwork, arming the new works, and providing four fire-ships."
In 1682 Colbeck's nomination to the Council of Jamaica was approved by the King, but he had died before the official papers were received in Kingston. A beautifully carved memorial flagstone in the south transept floor of the Cathedral of St James in Spanish Town records that he was born on May 30, 1630 and died on February 22, 1682.
Colbeck was returned again in the fourth Assembly on May 10, 1673 this time for Bowers under the head of St Catherine. In the next Assembly he appeared as a representative of St Catherine, and in the 6th Assembly on April 28th, 1675 he was returned for the newly formed parish of St. Dorothy, which he continued to represent in later assemblies. In 1679 Colbeck served on a committee of the Council and Assembly, for the Defence of Jamaica, making recommendations to the governor for "strengthening the breastwork, arming the new works, and providing four fire-ships."
In 1682 Colbeck's nomination to the Council of Jamaica was approved by the King, but he had died before the official papers were received in Kingston. A beautifully carved memorial flagstone in the south transept floor of the Cathedral of St James in Spanish Town records that he was born on May 30, 1630 and died on February 22, 1682.
A curious fact is that after Colbeck's death his name does not appear to be recorded, in the history of Jamaica. There is some doubt as to his origin, but it is generally believed he came from the Lincolnshire branch of the Colbeck family, where there is a tradition that one of their number was shipped off to the West Indies for a misdemeanour, where he prospered and made a fortune.
That Colbeck became a well-known and respected citizen of the island there can be little doubt, which makes it difficult to understand why there are no references to him in writings after his passing.
Equally puzzling is the complete lack of mention of his (?) monumental castle, which almost certainly must have been the largest building of its time in Jamaica, probably in all the Caribbean, one that could not have failed to catch the eye and merit the pen of successive historians and artists over the years. Yet nothing was sketched or written to record such an outstanding piece of architectural construction. One wonders why?
That Colbeck became a well-known and respected citizen of the island there can be little doubt, which makes it difficult to understand why there are no references to him in writings after his passing.
Equally puzzling is the complete lack of mention of his (?) monumental castle, which almost certainly must have been the largest building of its time in Jamaica, probably in all the Caribbean, one that could not have failed to catch the eye and merit the pen of successive historians and artists over the years. Yet nothing was sketched or written to record such an outstanding piece of architectural construction. One wonders why?
The castle
The main building of Colbeck is constructed in dressed limestone walling with red and mottled brick quoins and reveals (an interesting reversal of the brick wall and stone angle treatment). This block measures 83' 9" wide by 83' 10" deep overall, comprising a central unit with ground and first floors, and four rectangular towers 28' x 19' 6" at each angle rising to a height of three floors.
Balconies having arcades of five semi-circular brick arches are placed centrally on the north and south elevations, and similar arcades to balconies with three arches are on the east and west; all balconies have access from the interior on the first floor, but only the two larger are entered from the inside on the ground floor. A centrally placed staircase served the first floor, and access to the second floor was by an internal timber stairway in the tower (s).
The main building of Colbeck is constructed in dressed limestone walling with red and mottled brick quoins and reveals (an interesting reversal of the brick wall and stone angle treatment). This block measures 83' 9" wide by 83' 10" deep overall, comprising a central unit with ground and first floors, and four rectangular towers 28' x 19' 6" at each angle rising to a height of three floors.
Balconies having arcades of five semi-circular brick arches are placed centrally on the north and south elevations, and similar arcades to balconies with three arches are on the east and west; all balconies have access from the interior on the first floor, but only the two larger are entered from the inside on the ground floor. A centrally placed staircase served the first floor, and access to the second floor was by an internal timber stairway in the tower (s).
The central block originally had a pitched roof, covered in tile, and the four corner towers were crowned at a higher level with pyramidal roofs. Main staircase and principal rooms were panelled in timber, and the balconies had some form, of grille or balustrade at sill height. Down pipes symmetrically placed on the facades carried rainwater off the roofs into 6" x 12" drains running from each angle at 45 degrees to four corner buildings in the compound.
Rainwater pipes were secured to the wall by iron holderbats. Running around the entire main house was a terrace or walkway, with a short flight of brick steps at each corner leading to the general garden level about eighteen inches below.
Rainwater pipes were secured to the wall by iron holderbats. Running around the entire main house was a terrace or walkway, with a short flight of brick steps at each corner leading to the general garden level about eighteen inches below.
The house is sited in the middle of an enclosure measuring 285' 8" by 282' 7", an area of just under two acres. At the four corners of this enclosure there are outbuildings extending 50' along each wall by 24' deep constructed in stone and brick similar to the main house. These blocks rise above the top of a stone boundary wall linking, each corner, and contain kitchens and bakery, a pool or reservoir, ablutions and latrines, store and staff rooms, all at ground level. Two of the corner groups (on the north-east and south-west) have rooms at lower ground level, roofed over with brick tunnel vaults and entered by external stairways. These were probably for storage and, in an emergency, perhaps for use as cells. (It is believed that Colbeck was intended to be a rallying point for the militia in times of an uprising, although the house is not provided with loopholes for defence as was customary in buildings where defence was an important consideration).
Today the walls stand almost intact, but floors, roof, panelling, and other timbers except lintels and one roof beam have long since disappeared, leaving this once grand house as a silent, and rather forbiding-looking reminder of its former magnificence.
Today the walls stand almost intact, but floors, roof, panelling, and other timbers except lintels and one roof beam have long since disappeared, leaving this once grand house as a silent, and rather forbiding-looking reminder of its former magnificence.
External walls are about 36' in height, 3' thick on the ground floor, 2' 6" on the first floor, and 2' on the second floor. Reduction in thickness is made on the inside at floor level, leaving the external face vertical (no precise test has been made, but there does not appear to be any batter on the outer faces.) [batter: a slope, as of the outer face of a wall, that recedes from bottom to top.]
Ground to first floor measures 12' 5", first floor to second floor 15', and second floor to ceiling (line) about 8'. Windows are rectangular and square in shape, except for circular openings of 4' diameter at ground floor in each of the four corner towers. Door openings are rectangular.
Stone courses on the main house average 9" high, to take three courses of brick at door and window reveals: and at the quoins. This brick pattern alternates from one and a half bricks to two and a half bricks wide, and follow a regular arrangement throughout. The bricks are 8½" x 4⅓" x 2½", and in appearance similar to English made bricks from the southern counties: they probably were imported from the home country.
Limestone is local, but tiles and lead for the roof, and slate or stone paving slabs would also have been imported. An interesting feature is the use of iron cannon balls as terminals to the brick and stone piers above balconies at roof level.
Ground to first floor measures 12' 5", first floor to second floor 15', and second floor to ceiling (line) about 8'. Windows are rectangular and square in shape, except for circular openings of 4' diameter at ground floor in each of the four corner towers. Door openings are rectangular.
Stone courses on the main house average 9" high, to take three courses of brick at door and window reveals: and at the quoins. This brick pattern alternates from one and a half bricks to two and a half bricks wide, and follow a regular arrangement throughout. The bricks are 8½" x 4⅓" x 2½", and in appearance similar to English made bricks from the southern counties: they probably were imported from the home country.
Limestone is local, but tiles and lead for the roof, and slate or stone paving slabs would also have been imported. An interesting feature is the use of iron cannon balls as terminals to the brick and stone piers above balconies at roof level.
Openings in the outer wad are spanned externally with flat brick arches, the inner thickness being carried on hardwood lintels with brick relieving arches. In internal walls the openings are spanned by timber lintels and brick relieving arches. Where accessible lintels have been removed most likely by theft rather than deterioration from weathering or infestation.
Mortar for bedding and pointing has not been analysed, but is probably a lime compound with an admixture of molasses. This type of mortar was common for masonry construction in Jamaica, and more satisfactory, as well as economical, than the rich cement/sand mixes commonly used today.
(In recent works of conservation to ancient stone buildings at Port Henderson in St. Catherine the Jamaica National Trust Commission used a mix composed of.one part cement to six parts lime to twenty-four parts washed river sand, with satisfactory results after the workmen had become convinced that such a 'weak' proportion would do the job!).
Mortar for bedding and pointing has not been analysed, but is probably a lime compound with an admixture of molasses. This type of mortar was common for masonry construction in Jamaica, and more satisfactory, as well as economical, than the rich cement/sand mixes commonly used today.
(In recent works of conservation to ancient stone buildings at Port Henderson in St. Catherine the Jamaica National Trust Commission used a mix composed of.one part cement to six parts lime to twenty-four parts washed river sand, with satisfactory results after the workmen had become convinced that such a 'weak' proportion would do the job!).
No actual floor timbers remain, but examination of the walls indicates that floors were of timber fixed to joists carried on main beams spanning across rooms. Clearly visible at roof level in side faces of the towers are recesses to take the feet of hip rafters, and on the same wall faces there are distinct inclined lines following slope of roof over the four balconies.
In one face a piece of roofing tile can still be observed and over the salon on the north elevation, a section of horizontal roof and ceiling timber remains built at one end into its original place.
Internally walls are plastered in lime mortar, in two and three coats work. Principal rooms and main staircase were panelled, carried up to ceiling in the main salon; windows and doors would have been in timber, the doors panelled in a style to accord with design of room timberwork.
In one face a piece of roofing tile can still be observed and over the salon on the north elevation, a section of horizontal roof and ceiling timber remains built at one end into its original place.
Internally walls are plastered in lime mortar, in two and three coats work. Principal rooms and main staircase were panelled, carried up to ceiling in the main salon; windows and doors would have been in timber, the doors panelled in a style to accord with design of room timberwork.
It is likely that windows were glazed in double-hung sashes, as a fireplace, with' a 14" by 8" flue was' constructed on first floor, suggesting rather surprisingly that:the owner found the climate at Colbeck such that a fire was sometimes desirable. It was certainly an architectural feature that reminded him of home, and functioned also to assist natural ventilation through the house.
This large and solidly built group, imposing even in its ruined state, shares (with Rose Hall, in St. James, built about 1780) the distinction of being the largest and best constructed of the ancient houses to have resisted time and the elements, it stands today as mute testimony to sterling design and building in the early days of the English period in Jamaica.
This large and solidly built group, imposing even in its ruined state, shares (with Rose Hall, in St. James, built about 1780) the distinction of being the largest and best constructed of the ancient houses to have resisted time and the elements, it stands today as mute testimony to sterling design and building in the early days of the English period in Jamaica.
Although it is usually credited to John Colbeck or his time, there must be some doubt that this early dating is correct. The question has already been asked — why was this comparatively vast complex ignored by later writers such as for example Edward Long (1774) who had personal interests a few miles away in Clarendon and would probably have heard something of the house?
If so, why did he not visit, and have something to record about the place? Why, too, did 19th century artists including Kidd, Hakewill, and Duperley pass it by without even the quickest of sketches or note?
Kidd in particular covered a lot of ground in the island picturing with his facile draughtsmanship, many of the larger estate houses and factories.
Hakewill ventured as far afield as Holland, more than forty miles from Kingston, and has left us an interesting and valuable drawing of Holland House. But nothing at all of Colbeck from these itinerant and painstaking men of the brush and pencil. Does this suggest that the buildings did not exist in their day?
If so, why did he not visit, and have something to record about the place? Why, too, did 19th century artists including Kidd, Hakewill, and Duperley pass it by without even the quickest of sketches or note?
Kidd in particular covered a lot of ground in the island picturing with his facile draughtsmanship, many of the larger estate houses and factories.
Hakewill ventured as far afield as Holland, more than forty miles from Kingston, and has left us an interesting and valuable drawing of Holland House. But nothing at all of Colbeck from these itinerant and painstaking men of the brush and pencil. Does this suggest that the buildings did not exist in their day?
Admittedly this is not evidence for a dating of the building to the 19th century, but it is nonetheless strange, and worthy of record, that no drawings or written reports of Colbeck Castle have come to light, so far at least as is known to me. This is not of course to conclude that there are no published drawings or other papers, and it would be of the greatest interest to architects and historians if some evidence could be found that would assist in dating this important building with reasonable accuracy.
Some months ago, when examining the fabric for evidence of any inscription or other detail that would help in this quest, I came across a name
K. J. Francis and date cut into the under-coat of plaster lining a wall on the ground floor, in the corridor leading to the north arcade.
So far as could be made out the figures were 1, followed by a figure that could not be read followed by 4 and 8. This could be interpreted as 1748 or 1848, since it could not have been 1648; the two end figures are certainly 4 and 8.
If 1748, and the cut was made when the plaster was first applied during construction, this would establish that the building was not built in Colbeck's day; or at least that the plastering was not done at the time of building by Colbeck. or his contemporaries. Again this type of evidence is not conclusive, but it is suggestive of a later date than circa 1680.
Some months ago, when examining the fabric for evidence of any inscription or other detail that would help in this quest, I came across a name
K. J. Francis and date cut into the under-coat of plaster lining a wall on the ground floor, in the corridor leading to the north arcade.
So far as could be made out the figures were 1, followed by a figure that could not be read followed by 4 and 8. This could be interpreted as 1748 or 1848, since it could not have been 1648; the two end figures are certainly 4 and 8.
If 1748, and the cut was made when the plaster was first applied during construction, this would establish that the building was not built in Colbeck's day; or at least that the plastering was not done at the time of building by Colbeck. or his contemporaries. Again this type of evidence is not conclusive, but it is suggestive of a later date than circa 1680.
Similarity.
Colbeck Castle has some similarity to Stokes Hall, a house near Golden Grove in St. Thomas constructed circa 1710. Both buildings have a rectangular central unit, with four corner blocks roofed at higher level, the whole very solidly constructed and fortress-like in appearance. Stokes Hail is, however, on a smaller scale, with a different elevational pattern lacking the fine brick detail and graceful arcades of Colbeck.
Another early house, this time less than ten miles from Colbeck is at Malmsey Valley near Rock River in Clarendon. Here we find excellent brick construction remarkably like Colbeck, particularly in quoins and door and window reveals. Malmsey Valley house is a two-storied structure now alas, in ruins, but enough of the fabric remains to indicate a close tie with Colbeck.
A tentative date is offered as circa 1740, from a reference in the Crop Accounts for 1740-42 (in the Jamaica Archives at Spanish Town) recording "Properties of Peter Beckford Sr. Dcd . . . Malmsey Valley Plantation . . . "
Colbeck Castle has some similarity to Stokes Hall, a house near Golden Grove in St. Thomas constructed circa 1710. Both buildings have a rectangular central unit, with four corner blocks roofed at higher level, the whole very solidly constructed and fortress-like in appearance. Stokes Hail is, however, on a smaller scale, with a different elevational pattern lacking the fine brick detail and graceful arcades of Colbeck.
Another early house, this time less than ten miles from Colbeck is at Malmsey Valley near Rock River in Clarendon. Here we find excellent brick construction remarkably like Colbeck, particularly in quoins and door and window reveals. Malmsey Valley house is a two-storied structure now alas, in ruins, but enough of the fabric remains to indicate a close tie with Colbeck.
A tentative date is offered as circa 1740, from a reference in the Crop Accounts for 1740-42 (in the Jamaica Archives at Spanish Town) recording "Properties of Peter Beckford Sr. Dcd . . . Malmsey Valley Plantation . . . "
It has been suggested that construction of the whole group at Colbeck was never completed, as evidenced by a large heap of lime found some years ago in the compound, and by weep-holes in the boundary wall above ground leveL In a reference to the building Cundall remarks "It was evidently at one time partially destroyed by fire" without, however, quoting his authority for this statement.
A visitor in 1964, a well-known English historian, said . . that Colbeck resembled a house known to him to have existed in the south of Ireland, but unfortunately no drawings or photographs of the Irish 'pastiche' have so far come to hand. All this added to doubt concerning its date makes Colbeck a fascinating puzzle, a sort of architectural mystery story about which one asks "Oodunit — and when?"
If any reader of this is able to shed light on the history of this unique building information would be gratefully received and acknowledged by the writer.
By generous gift of the owners Colbeck Castle and a small area of adjoining land is now the property of the Nation, vested in charge of the Jamaica National Trust Commission. The public are free to visit at any normal time, by way of the road and track leading into the site from the north, reached by tuning north at the clock tower in Old Harbour.
A visitor in 1964, a well-known English historian, said . . that Colbeck resembled a house known to him to have existed in the south of Ireland, but unfortunately no drawings or photographs of the Irish 'pastiche' have so far come to hand. All this added to doubt concerning its date makes Colbeck a fascinating puzzle, a sort of architectural mystery story about which one asks "Oodunit — and when?"
If any reader of this is able to shed light on the history of this unique building information would be gratefully received and acknowledged by the writer.
By generous gift of the owners Colbeck Castle and a small area of adjoining land is now the property of the Nation, vested in charge of the Jamaica National Trust Commission. The public are free to visit at any normal time, by way of the road and track leading into the site from the north, reached by tuning north at the clock tower in Old Harbour.
Sugar and Slaves, Richard S Dunn, 1973
pp 295-6
. . . the imposing ruins of Colbeck Castle in Jamaica possibly show us how a big planter lived. Colbeck Castle stands in an unkempt pasture a few miles from Old Harbour on the south coast of the island. The date of this curious structure is much in doubt. Popular tradition has it that Col. John Colbeck (d.1683), one of the principal early planters in Jamaica, built the place.[54] But more probably it was built in the mid-eighteenth century. Colbeck Castle is a grand, gloomy pile of gray limestone trimmed with brick, so singular in its design as to defy architectural periodization. It is a much larger building than any of the other surviving early island houses. In scale and plan it resembles a seventeenth century English aristocrat's great house.The three-storied central block is almost square, ninety-four by eighty-four feet, with walls three feet thick and thirty-six feet high. There are four massive corner towers with distinctive round porthole windows at ground level. These towers are joined by aqueduct-style double arcades, which provide shaded terraces and balconies on all sides of the building. Inside there is abundant display space; the grand staircase and terraces occupy twice the area of the six rooms on each floor. The kitchen, bakery, and other service rooms are far removed, placed in four symmetrically arranged outbuildings situated at the outer perimeter of the castle's two-acre compound. On a street plan of Kingston, circa 1740, there is a picture of a town house strikingly similar to Colbeck Castle, with much the same corner towers, arcades and round porthole windows.[55] Corner towers are a feature of early eighteenth-century houses, Stokes Hall and Halse Hall both have them. Colbeck Castle, with its many large apertures, was poorly designed for a fort, but very well designed for tropical living. If, as present evidence suggests, it was built in 1748, the building illustrates a new and better approach toward tropical architecture, providing for more cool shade and ventilation than the stuffy houses Ligon and Sloane complained about.[56]
pp 295-6
. . . the imposing ruins of Colbeck Castle in Jamaica possibly show us how a big planter lived. Colbeck Castle stands in an unkempt pasture a few miles from Old Harbour on the south coast of the island. The date of this curious structure is much in doubt. Popular tradition has it that Col. John Colbeck (d.1683), one of the principal early planters in Jamaica, built the place.[54] But more probably it was built in the mid-eighteenth century. Colbeck Castle is a grand, gloomy pile of gray limestone trimmed with brick, so singular in its design as to defy architectural periodization. It is a much larger building than any of the other surviving early island houses. In scale and plan it resembles a seventeenth century English aristocrat's great house.The three-storied central block is almost square, ninety-four by eighty-four feet, with walls three feet thick and thirty-six feet high. There are four massive corner towers with distinctive round porthole windows at ground level. These towers are joined by aqueduct-style double arcades, which provide shaded terraces and balconies on all sides of the building. Inside there is abundant display space; the grand staircase and terraces occupy twice the area of the six rooms on each floor. The kitchen, bakery, and other service rooms are far removed, placed in four symmetrically arranged outbuildings situated at the outer perimeter of the castle's two-acre compound. On a street plan of Kingston, circa 1740, there is a picture of a town house strikingly similar to Colbeck Castle, with much the same corner towers, arcades and round porthole windows.[55] Corner towers are a feature of early eighteenth-century houses, Stokes Hall and Halse Hall both have them. Colbeck Castle, with its many large apertures, was poorly designed for a fort, but very well designed for tropical living. If, as present evidence suggests, it was built in 1748, the building illustrates a new and better approach toward tropical architecture, providing for more cool shade and ventilation than the stuffy houses Ligon and Sloane complained about.[56]
notes:
54. Colbeck came to Jamaica with the army in 1655, patented 7,732 acres (including the land where the castle stands), became speaker of the Assembly, and died shortly after being elevated to the Council, leaving no male descendants. His land grants are in Jam. Land Pat., some Colbeck papers are in the Institute of Jamaica in Kingston, and his tombstone is in the Spanish Town Cathedral.
55. Plan of Kingston under Governor Trelawny (1738-1752) reproduced by Frank Cundall, The Governors of Jamaica in the First Half of the Eighteenth Century (London, 1937), facing p. 206.
56. T. A. L. Concannon, the leading architectural historian in Jamaica, found a date - either 1748 or 1848 - cut into the undercoat of plaster on a wall of Colbeck Castle. Writing in a Jamaica periodical, The Masterbuilder, (June 1965), he leans toward 1748 as the more probable date of construction.
54. Colbeck came to Jamaica with the army in 1655, patented 7,732 acres (including the land where the castle stands), became speaker of the Assembly, and died shortly after being elevated to the Council, leaving no male descendants. His land grants are in Jam. Land Pat., some Colbeck papers are in the Institute of Jamaica in Kingston, and his tombstone is in the Spanish Town Cathedral.
55. Plan of Kingston under Governor Trelawny (1738-1752) reproduced by Frank Cundall, The Governors of Jamaica in the First Half of the Eighteenth Century (London, 1937), facing p. 206.
56. T. A. L. Concannon, the leading architectural historian in Jamaica, found a date - either 1748 or 1848 - cut into the undercoat of plaster on a wall of Colbeck Castle. Writing in a Jamaica periodical, The Masterbuilder, (June 1965), he leans toward 1748 as the more probable date of construction.